At the end of fall, remove all of the dead ferns and crop debris that would otherwise shelter the adult beetles. If these practices do not control the pest, several insecticides are labeled for management of asparagus beetle.
Asparagus rust and Fusarium crown and root rot are common diseases. Both diseases can weaken asparagus plants, so that the planting becomes less productive over time. Most varieties are fairly resistant to rust. Removing old ferns provides additional protection. Fusarium is more difficult to control. Use vigorous varieties listed as tolerant and do not plant new asparagus in areas that were previously planted to asparagus.
Do not harvest asparagus until the third year after planting. The plants need at least two full seasons of growth before they build up ample food reserves to sustain harvests. In the third year, harvest only 2 to 3 weeks. In years thereafter, harvest no longer than 6 to 8 weeks until about July 1 in southern New Hampshire. Harvesting for a longer period of time will not allow for maximum fern growth. Harvest the spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. Either snap or cut the spears off at ground level.
To avoid injuring spears beneath the soil surface, do not cut more than one inch below the surface. Asparagus is of highest quality when freshly harvested. It can be stored for a couple of weeks if the temperature is held at 34 degrees F and high relative humidity, but sweetness and flavor will deteriorate. Maintain short-term freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about an inch of water in a flat-bottomed container in the refrigerator.
Remove ferns in the late fall, once they have completely died back. Early each spring, cultivate to remove any perennial weeds, and apply fertilizer materials over the surface. Apply the equivalent of fertilizer at about 2,5 pounds per square feet. All rights reserved. The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer. Home Yard and garden Find plants Vegetables Growing asparagus.
A quick guide to asparagus An asparagus plant can last 15 years. Choose its spot in the garden carefully. Planting at the right depth is important. Good soil moisture is important at planting for good root and fern growth.
Begin harvest two years after planting crowns, three years after planting seeds. Harvest spears until June 30, and then allow the large feathery ferns to develop. Soil pH and fertility for asparagus.
Open all Close all. Soil testing and fertilizer Asparagus grows best in well-drained soils with a pH between 6. Selecting plants. Male and female plants There are female plants and male plants. This means the plants are dioecious.
All produce edible spears. Only plants with all female flowers produce red, inedible berries in summer. Female plants grow larger spears.
Male plants grow a greater number of smaller, uniform spears. Most hybrids, such as Jersey Giant, are plants with only male flowers that produce no seeds. Plants with all male flowers do not use energy on developing seeds and fruits. Male asparagus plants tend to live longer and produce more spears. Female plants can produce undesirable weedy seedling asparagus plants. Varieties that do well in Minnesota Varieties recommended for Minnesota include: Millennium: A newer variety from the University of Guelph.
It is very vigorous and high yielding. The Jersey varieties are popular and very high yielding. These are open-pollinated varieties. Yields are lower than the Jersey varieties, but they are very cold hardy. Location A planting of asparagus can last 15 years or more, so choose the spot for an asparagus bed carefully. Choose a fertile, sunny, well-drained site with soil that holds moisture well. Starting crowns. Starting seeds Asparagus is typically planted as crowns, rather than seeds.
However, gardeners wishing to try starting asparagus from seed may follow these recommendations: Choose an area of the garden as a nursery bed. How to keep asparagus healthy and productive. Watering Soil moisture is important for good root and fern growth in asparagus. Controlling weeds. Insects The most common insect pests on asparagus in Minnesota are the common and spotted asparagus beetles. Diseases Use good cultural control practices to reduce disease problems.
Common diseases of asparagus include Fusarium crown rot, asparagus rust, and Stemphylium purple spot. Asparagus rust causes yellow and rusty orange spots to form on asparagus stems after harvest. Purple spot causes sunken purple spots on asparagus spears, and tan spots with a purple border on mature stems. Plants suffering from crown rot have poor growth. This is where patience comes into play: harvesting too much too early will lead to weak plants and lower yields down the road.
Harvest spears when they are five to eight inches tall. You can do this by either cutting or snapping. This is how Asparagus is usually harvested commercially. When snapping spears, grab them near the base and bend them towards the ground until they snap.
Like spring bulbs, the foliage of asparagus helps generate energy for the following year. Asparagus contains aspragusic acid, which is broken down into sulfur-containing compounds by your body; it is believed this is what causes smelly urine.
Learn more from the University of Utah. Asparagus photo: " asparagus " CC BY 2. Want to get notified when new Good Growing posts are available? Skip to main content. How to successfully grow asparagus in your garden. Asparagus can also be grown from crowns roots that are often sold at garden centers in late winter and spring.
You can also find them online at seed company sites. Crowns are the roots that are started by a seed grower. You can purchase crowns that are one, two, or three years old to speed up your harvest. One year old crowns are less susceptible to transplant shock so they can be a good option to go with in my opinion.
Crowns should look fresh and firm. Before planting, soak the crowns in compost tea for minutes then plant in beds that have been prepared with either aged compost or organic planting mix. Crowns need to be planted in trenches. Dig a trench that is about 10 inches deep and 12 inches wide.
Fill the bottom of the trench with a good amount of compost to improve the soil where the roots will be growing over the next few years. You can then replace some of the soil you removed while digging to the trench creating a ridge down the middle. You want the ridge to support the crown while allowing the roots to hang down into the bottom where the compost is. Aim to space your trenches feet apart allowing plenty of room over the rest of its growing time.
Once finished you can begin planting your crowns. Set the crowns on top of the mound, draping the roots over the edges of the mound. Plant crowns inches apart. Cover them with 2 inches of soil panting down near the crown to hold them in place. Water to firm the soil up and to hold the roots where they are planted. Spears will begin to grow as early as a few weeks.
As the spears grow, cover them again with another 2 inches of soil, repeating this process until the trench is gradually filled. Continue to mound up soil over the spears until the plants are growing on at least 4-inch tall rows. Be sure not to plant until your soil is 50 degrees or warmer in the spring. Full sun is best, but asparagus can also tolerate partial shade. When choosing a spot to plant watch different areas so you can see the amount of sun.
Keep in mind that wind can do damage so you will want to look for a partially protected area as well. Asparagus prefers loose, compost rich soil that is well-drained.
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